The ancient city of Ephesus is located in western Turkey, near the port of Kusadasi. At it's height in the 2nd or 3rd century AD it had some 250,000 or more people. It was one of the most important cities in the Roman Empire. The Apostle Paul spent at least two years there and wrote letters to the Christian inhabitants. Ephesus was a port and when the port silted up it ceased to have any importance and basically withered and died.
On this trip to Ephesus we hired a private guide. Four of us tourists, one guide and one driver in an air conditioned Mercedes van, plus lunch The guide spoke excellent English and was very knowledgeable. The name of the tour group is Magical Steps and can be found at www. magical-steps.com. Highly recommended. I previously wrote about Ephesus in a blog called, strangely enough, Ephesus, on 10/13/09.
On entering Ephesus you proceed down a long street which was a main commercial street. Shops, a small theatre, a Roman bath, temples and a small Christian Basilica are found along this street. Near the bottom of the street the hills rising to the south have been excavated extensively, revealing what are called Terrace Houses.These were private houses, with some common areas. They were for the well off, sort of like Scottsdale or Beverly Hills condos.
The photo above is some of the ruins on the north side of the street. Below are what appear to be bulls' heads decorating the tops of some columns.
Below is a water pipe. Ephesus had both running water and a sewer system. The sewage was collected and used as fertilizer, according to our guide.
Below is an early Christian basilica. Note the cross on the lintel.
Below is a small theatre.
The two photos below reveal some of the construction methods. Interlocking pegs and holes were used. Many of the columns were made of small drums fitted together with the same type of peg and hole technique. Sort of like a giant Lego set.
In the photo below are some bas-relief sculptures, perhaps part of a temple.
The two photos below are two of my favorites, because I can relate to the occupants. The top one is the sign of a physician, the staff of Aesculapius, and the bottom one, which was located directly across the street, the sign of a pharmacist.
Pictured below is a small temple.
Details from a building, probably a small temple.
Below is a photo of a lavatory. I know I showed this in the earlier blog about Ephesus(10/13/09),
but I need to make some corrections. It was a men's lavatory, not women's, and was part of the Roman bath, which was also men only.
The next series of photos are all from the Terrace Houses. The first shows wall plaster and painted decoration from a Terrace House room.
This next photo is of the small Christian basilica in the middle of the Terrace Houses.
The photo below shows some walls partially restored. Much of this work is like trying to assemble a gigantic jigsaw puzzle.
This photo shows partially restored exquisite wall paintings.
The photo below below shows excavation and restoration in progress. Note the extensive floor mosaic .
The owner of the house below seemed to like birds.
A broader view of some of the restoration.
This lion is a wonderful floor mosaic.
Another broader view.
A floor mosaic of a woman, along with some wall paintings.
Again a view of several rooms and walls.
Painting of what appears to be a dove or pigeon with a flower in its mouth. Note the water pipe showing on the right.
Another great floor mosaic.
Below is a view of west Ephesus from the Terrace Houses. This area is choc-a-bloc with unexcavated ruins. Only about 20% of Ephesus has been excavated.
This is the Celsus Library, second only to the library at Alexandria. It is located just west of the Terrace Houses at the bottom of the main commercial street.
Another street with many columns still standing.
The street below is the main street leading down to the docks.
Another side street.
Below is a young woman weaving a silk Turkish rug. This was at a government run facility for the encouragement of traditional Turkish arts and crafts. It was very interesting and without any pressure to buy.
Below are some of the ruins of the temple of Artemis, at one time a magnificent place. Very close to the excavated ruins of Ephesus.
I highly recommend Ephesus, and I highly recommend doing it with a good private guide, such as we did this time.
Showing posts with label Turkey. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Turkey. Show all posts
Saturday, February 9, 2013
Monday, November 19, 2012
Hagia Sophia Redux--Part 2
The above photo shows the upper gallery decor above the Empress' Loge. The upper gallery is reached by means of a long ramp, shown in the photos below. The Ramp starts in the narthex in the orthwest corner of the building.
The first photo below is taken from the upper gallery above the Emperor's entrance looking towards the apse. The second is from the upper gallery, apse end, looking towards the Emperor's entrance.
The three photos above show typical decor of the gallery ceiling, columns and window arches.The photo below shows where some of the Muslim plaster has been removed revealing the original Byzantine beneath. When the Muslims took over in the 15th century they redecorated, including plastering over the mosaics. Their belief does not like depictions of humans but does allow for geometric designs.
The above is a partial bit of a painting or mosaic from an arch in the upper gallery.
This mosaic of Mary with the Christ child is high up in the apse. It has been dated to the 9th century. Below is more of a closeup; at least as close as I could get from the upper gallery.
The mosaics that have been uncovered are quite amazing. The two photos below show what are called the Empress Zoe mosaics. They show Constantine IX, his Empress, Zoe, and Chris or Christ and Mary. They date from the 11th century.
This next mosaic is one of my favorites, even though it is only partially intact. It is referred to as the Deesis mosaic. In the early 1200s the Venetians sacked Constantinople and it was returned to Byzantine control 57 years later. This mosaic was done in 1261 in commemoration of the return to Byzantine control. It shows Mary and John the Baptist with Christ. I find Christ's eyes remarkable; they seem to bore right through me.
The above mosaic, found on the tympanum of one of the exit doors from the nave to the narthex, is another favorite. It shows the Emperor Justinian on the left presenting a model of the Hagia Sophia to Mary and the Christ child. On the right the Emperor Constantine presents a model of the city of Constantinople. This mosaic dates from the 9th or 10th century.
This is a part of the original frieze, depicting the Lamb of God.
A note on the photos--all the photos in this and the previous blog entry were taken with a Sony a900 DSLR and a Zeiss 24-70mm lens. Because of the difficulty of using a tripod here, they were all hand held. The interior shots were mostly if not all shot at ISO 2500, to get the aperture I wanted and have a fast enough shutter speed to prevent blurring.
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