There is a large National Park in
Southern Utah called Canyonlands National Park. It covers a territory
of canyons, arches, standing rocks, creeks and portions of the Green
and Colorado Rivers including the confluence of the two rivers. It is
very wild and remote, with much of it accessible only to 4 wheel
drive(4WD) vehicles, backpacking or raft. There is also some mountain
biking.
Canyonlands was made a National Park in
1964. Sometime in 1964 National Geographic ran a story on
Canyonlands, which I saw somewhere, although I was not a subscriber.
I remember being very impressed and decided that I needed to explore
that area. In 1969 or 1970, while I was in practice in Utah I laid
into a Ford Bronco, 4WD. I also got a large scale map of Canyonlands
and managed to locate a copy of the National Geographic issue on
Canyonlands at a used bookstore. I then started plotting trips.
One of the most striking things in the
article was a photo of a pictograph called The All American Man.
This is what is called a shield figure, which there are several of in
this area. However, this one's shield is in a red, white and blue
pattern. It is the only one like this ever found. I decided I had to
see him.
I located him on my map, packed up food
and water, etc. and went for it. The entrance to the Needles district
of the park, which is where the All American Man is located, is south
of Moab. A little ways into the park is a sandy wash called Salt
Creek. I turned off the park entrance road and drove south up Salt Creek. For
the most part I drove up the creek bed. Salt Creek always has water
in it somewhere, unless there has been a big storm, when it has water
everywhere. The water was never deep enough to cause trouble. I drove
past the small side canyon where Angel Arch is located and continued
south for about another seven or so miles. The All American Man is
located in a cave the mouth of which is about 10 or so feet above the
canyon floor. At the point I stopped Salt Creek had stopped running
south and there was now a wash running east and west. Not being sure
where I was and not seeing a cave, I turned around and went back out.
It turns out I was probably a few hundred yards from the cave when I
gave up.
The photo above is of the road in towards Salt Creek. Below are kids playing in Salt Creek.
Below is typical scenery along Salt Creek.
Above I believe is Peek a Boo Arch, although I wouldn't swear to that. The photo below is Paul Bunyan's Potty. Both of these are north of Angel Arch Canyon and either in Salt Creek or Horse Canyon, which you get into from the Salt Creek road.
The next time I went down there I only
got as far as the Angel Arch canyon; a big cottonwood tree had fallen
down across a narrow point in the canyon/creek bottom and blocked
vehicle travel. I was not prepared for a hike so I didn't go any
further.
In the spring of 1972 I decided to have
a real go at finding the elusive pictograph. This time I took some
friends, water and food for several days, prepared to camp near Angel
Arch and hike in and find this guy. We got up early and ate
breakfast. I dug a hole, built a fire next to it, shoveled the hot
coals and embers into it, put a stew in a dutch oven, put the dutch
oven in the hole, shoveled the rest of the coals on and around and
then covered it with sand/dirt. I took a small back pack, my
Mamiya/Sekor 1000 DTL 35mm SLR, a small electronic flash, an extra
lens, lunch and plenty of water and Kodachrome and headed off. We
hiked about seven miles up Salt Creek, mostly in sand and when we
came to the east-west wash turned east. Below is a photo of part of the group hiking along the Salt Creek wash and another photo of a flower. I'm afraid I don't know what variety it is.
After a few hundred yards
someone shouted “There it is!” Sure enough, on the north side of
the canyon was a cave about 10 feet above the canyon floor and on the
west wall was the All American Man. The entrance to the cave is not
very big, nor is the cave more than about 15-20 feet deep. The All
American Man is probably about four feet inside the entrance. It
would be easy to miss the cave and, unless you looked west, easy to
miss the All American Man from the wash. At the back of the cave is a
small man-made wall, either to delineate a small dwelling place or a
storage place.
The old cowboy at the back of the cave next to the small wall. Sorry about the focus.
The All American Man is about 5 feet
high and maybe 3 feet across at the widest point of the shield. At
some time someone had outlined him with chalk .Now frowned on, this
was often done by anthropologists/archaeologists to improve photos.
Personally I find it quite helpful in these photos. As I remember
that's the way it is in the Natioinal Geographic photos. There have
been doubts about his authenticity, but he has been authenticated by
radio-carbon dating to the 14th century and is attributed
to the Anasazi people. He was not found, or at least not reported by
whites, until the 1950's. I met one of the men who ranched and ran
cattle in that area who had not seen it. I know this old cowboy has
never seen anything like it. There are also a series of hand print
pictographs on either side of him. Hand print pictographs are quite
common in Anasazi country.
The photo below shows a wider angle view of the All American Man. In this view you can see the number of hand prints made around him. The cave entrance is just out of view to the left; the small wall just out of view to the right. The second photo below is another shot of the All American Man.
After photographing and looking around
the immediate area, we hiked back out. We got to our campsite just at
dusk, pulled the stew out of the ground and had dinner. It was
delicious!
The Park Service has become quite
secretive about the existence of the All American Man. He does not
appear on maps anymore and there is no mention of him on their
website. In addition they have virtually locked up Salt Creek with a
locked gate and permits needed to go a little ways by 4 WD or all the
way by Shank's mare, roughly 21 miles. I understand the need for
protection of artifacts, but at times it feels like they are trying
to “save” this and other things for the elite. In any event I am
glad I saw it; it was well worth the effort.
I'd like to see it some day. Glad you finally made it!
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